16 valve 1.6 Liter, Sidekick fast Timing belt swap:   
Not a free running motor !
The below applies to factory stock (OE spec) motors, only. (N. America)
Valve cover can STAY ON !
NEVER TIME the CAM at TDC # 1 cylinder ( forget that IDEA?)
Click to zoom   Ouch, click to zoom
 My Opinion:
Many non OEM published procedures are flawed, they assume too many things, like the belt is not slipped or the distributor is NOT timed correctly.
All generic store bought manuals  get this wrong.  I call them Rags.  as that is all they are good for, is to mop up spills.

Many store bought manuals (Rags) do not even consider, you have a new cam, new head/block or head gasket.  (HOW CAN THIS BE ?)

FSM = Factory Service Manual.  (only GM and Suzuki publish these) {ebay has them used dirt cheap ,get one for about $28 used}

Consider the worst case, starting point:  (the belt slipped or you had head removed,etc.)
Changing the crank seal , get the crank seal protector from Suzuki for $2.00  (no longer stocked) but I used electricians tape with good results.
Consider new seals, and a Fuel pump for sure !
Consider a new water pump ( they have the same life span, as the belt and it is very LOGICAL to replace it now)
Consider ! a  new idler pulley , not just the belt.  Gates Rubber,  has a nice kit with all the belt parts.
I will not mention removing the Radiator or tilting it  or any thing else , to get access to the belt cover.  (the A/C or AT , you can work this out)

Down  to BRASS TACKS:
Pull battery Minus cable and hide the keys.  1st !

Removing the spark plugs now, helps greatly when spinning crank later.
 (first,blow out the spark wells and check for water  and oil, there first , and sand and dirt)


The actual factory procedure is here in Zip form, down load it and print it out or just look.(with my annotated comments in red)


Prelimary STEP's P1:
The Sequence of  Events for the   16 Valve Motor ONLY :    [ below assumes a new pump , after 60 to 100k miles , its days are numbered ]
The battery minus cable is disconnected:
  1. Drain Radiator at bottom left (drivers perspective) tank. (take of RAD Cap to help , after full cooling of motor)
  2. Remove the fan stud nuts  and then remove shroud and fan at 1 assembly.
  3. Consider removing  radiator (not A/T or A/C)  . On Automatic, radiator can just be left installed, but slows the job.
  4. It my  be possible to tilt the radiator by losing all mounts, associated with it. 
  5. Loosen the 3 Alternator bolts/nuts, and swing it inward. (use a spanner on the lower inboard rear bolt/nut)
  6. Remove Alternator V-belt/ Serpentine belt .  (an any other belts, that block the front T-belt cover)   P/S , A/C?
  7. P/S has a hidden bolt , bottom / front , dead center, through the pulley , use a socket wrench, loosen all bolts and tilt it, inward.
  8. Remove Crank Damper pulley outer ring screws ( by unscrewing the tiny 8mm headed bolts around rim)  (some are Allen hex type. use penetrating oil)
  9. If this is your first belt swap, remove center 17mm large bolt and inspect the key way Now, for damage and after removing cog belt later.  Put car in 5th or block flywheel with locking device, to undo bolt , the BIG bolt, will be real tight 94 ft/lbs, if it was loose , that is bad news.  Inspect this, on any new car, to the barn, or be very sorry later.  THIS IS A HIGH FAILURE POINT.  I measure the reverse torque CCW with a beam troque wrench.
  10.  If the key way is damaged , you need to stop now and seek expert help.  You have a serious  problem.
  11. Remove the T-Belt cover.  Bingo, behold a timing belt, look for damage, I check timing marks , right now to be sure it didn't slip.  You will want to know that , now and what to do if it has slipped.  If  timing belt is timed ok now , proceed, if not then consider loosening the valve before proceeding.
If belt has not slipped, then PreStage the timing.  (16 Valve procedure) 
This makes sure you dont accidently bump the valves while changing out the belt.

At this point you are staring    at the belt , the timing belt.

STEP A : PreStage:  ( this step has NOTHING to do with the Distributor , ignore the Dizzy rotor , please.)
The rule is, never rotate cam more than 20 degrees from TDC #4 while doing this process !

The 92' Through 98' FSM 16v, all have this interference engine and must be pre-staged before the belt is swapped.
IT SAYS:  place the cam to the "E" mark , index mark aligned to the Cam back cover V notch, and Crank at TDC (happens to be #4 TDC) 
This is a 4 POINT alignment , 2 on cam, 2 on crank !!!  for Valve protection !  ( CAM KEYway DOWN  AND CRANK KEYway UP)
Do not confuse Keyways with index  MARKS !  they are 2 different things.  Look a the photos please.
If you cant do this ,then the belt HAS SLIPPED, etc.  (worse case) or the KEYWAY or KEY HAS STRIPPED or SHEARED.
Set these timing marks now  or as soon as belt is off. and do so carefully do not force the cam or crank, use only your hands !

MAY BE OK:
Carefully examine the belt , to see if belt has not stripped out ,snapped ,cracked , broken or slipped. (for historical reasons, then throw the belt out)
If you  suspect it has,  or are not sure ?, do not start rotating the crank wildly, you may damage the valves. ( and hide your ignition keys, please !)
Most belts shread shortly after 100k,  mine did at 120k miles. (Prev. owner , non believer in maintenance)


FOUND BELT SLIPPED ?  then consider making motor SAFE NOW .
(alternate PLAN if valve timing, is way off)

The only safe way (NOW that BELT has slipped), is to loosen all the valve lifters. so the valves can only move a little or NOT, at all.  (make valves safe for rotation of crank or cam , independantly )
 ( The 16 valve is an interference engine but the  8v is not.)

Loosening the Valve Lifters is NOT REQUIRED to tension the timing belt, but I am doing it here ,because I want to protect the VALVES, after a slip has occured and discovered.

There are 4 timing marks. (five counting outer rim machine mark in red  shown ,below, at cam wheel)
2 for the crank and 2 for the Cam.( below 1 to 4  marks ,see them?)

6 points of reference counting the KEYWAYs ( ignore the Key ways at your motors risk.)

Drawing #1  16v Cam Cog gear: Click below to zoom and see real photo.
  < Click to zoom
Photo 1:  Crank cog gear:

click to zoom
Note the crank key is at 12PM !!! see it , check CAREFULLY THIS !!!
#3 Mark is above  crank cog , cast into aluminum oil pump housing. See white mark above cog.?
#4 Mark is on crank cog  itself., see my white mark here.
I recommend  the big Bolt and cog be removed, for key way inspection !! A HIGH FAILURE POINT.

See that bottom 17mm bolt?, it must be torqued to the new TSB spec. 94ft/lbs on all kicks.
All other sources of information, show the torque wrong.  All !  this is because the publications DO NOT APPLY TSB UPDATES !
They have had 12 years to update there publications and have yet to do so.  Rags are well, rags.


( Please , inspect the keyway if you are smart)
( if Previous repairer used red or green Loctite ® on this bolt, you will need to heat it before removing it.) [ reports of shearing and stripping ]
Assume there is Loctite ® applied, or damage can result , follow instructions at Locites home page for removal. (temperatures)

Notice that both the positions above, are unambiguous, there is only one TDC on the crank cog , you do not have to count turns or any such thing.
Just set them, like the photos show and don't worry.  If belt was okay and didn't slip, the prestaging above would already have the marks aligned.

Do not freak out if any #1 valves are open, look at #4 , they are closed and lash loose.  (the Chilton's/Mitchels, master data base , mentions this fact)

That, is how it is done for PROPER TENSION.  See FSM pages above , if you have doubt's.

Proper tension is critical, it happens by allowing the spring on the  idler  to press on belt with the pulley.
The key here is all tension comes from that tiny spring. (on the facing belt left side).  Never tension a timing belt like an accessory Serpentine belt.

The Crank has a TDC pointer, so rotate the crank until it points to the 12pm marker on the oil pump, clearly shown above.
Next , is the cam, if the belt has  not slipped? , then the E mark will be  aligned to the 12 pm marker, on the backing plate of the Cam sprocket. See above photo.

On the outer rim of the cam cog wheel is a machined mark, this is the exact TDC mark and is located directly above the E mark. (TDC on # 4 firing)
Please ignore the "I" mark, it is useless, and ignore the distributor rotor,  as the Distributor  could be set all wrong. (worse case, remember?)
Concentrate ONLY on the cam and crank action. (as it is not to be compromised in any way)  The Distributor is last. (way last)

If they are not aligned now (the 4 marks) , then I just saved your valves,  Your welcome!    (no where else , are these facts, so carefully written and detailed).

At this point the FSM says to lock the cam and crank.  ( most DIY people skip this step). Locking cam and crank makes the belt go on easier but is not required unless changing seals or cogs, cam , or such.  I do lock the crank every time and make sure the big bolt is at spec.

If you decided to remove the cam cog wheel , you will see that  "the key way is at 6pm, there is at least 1 other wrong key way position. at 11pm."
This Cam wheel MUST be set correctly , do not proceed until it is correct.  Not shown in FSM or in the car store books. oops !
Some cars have nicely marked and simple cam cog wheels , but most in the USA have false marks, and can be confusing.

See STEP A , far above first, then...:
  1. Loosen the timing belt IDLER tensioner bolt.   ( main lower damper pulley is already off, via the 4 tiny bolts)
  2. Loosen the spring stud bolt.  (test this device for being free to move and no binding after loosening it.)
  3. Wiggle all parts there, till loose and take off belt and spring. ( as necessary).
  4. If cam or crank moves?, put them back, and repeat step A anytime you see cam or crank move. 
  5. OPTION  B:  take off crank  pulley big bolt and cog and inspect the key way, many kick owners report heavy damage here, and is common. (lock the crank/flywheel, first and expect 94ft/lbs of force to remove it, it take more use heat! ).  Put bolt back bolt and torque it. using Flywheel lock. (see note1)
  6. Put the new belt back on , with the right side (drivers left) of the belt tight , no slack, all slack must be on the opposite idle pulley side.
  7. Put back the spring / idler and let the spring take up all slack. now just set the 2 bolts finger tight, then back off so spring device barely floats.
  8. Make sure the spring plate indexes properly behind the idler bushing (back side index ) so that spring powers the spring plate.
  9. Check the timing again, like in step A & 4, with no slack on the right ( left side, for the drivers perspective) Stud nut and idle bolt 1/2 turn loose.
  10.  If all checks out , rotate the crankshaft  2 Revolutions( Clock-Wise facing rear, at crank big bolt 17mm) , spark plugs removed helps GREATLY !
  11. The plugs removed  helps a tiny but, but is not necessary, see tiny tension spring device , set the exact tension on the belt ! via step 10.
  12. This extra steps allow the tiny little TBELT spring , to take out the belt slack.  Once set perfect we lock it down. 
  13. If the timing marks are again perfect , like in step A, then now lock the Idler tensioner bolt and the spring stud to spec.
  14. The engine cam is now timed PERFECTLY.  Make sure stud in step 2 is set to factory torque.
  15. Reverse the above procedures , (access gained on previous page)
  16.  and then time the Distributor.  use  the 16V section    OR see my Distributor short cut here.
Keep in mind that spring only  works before the lock down , setting the exact tension, the spring is now useless until the next 60k swap.

Note1:   the 17mm bolt must be torqued to 94 lbs/ft ,and this can be done, 4 ways.
1: 5th gear , rear wheels chocked in 4wd High. Manual Tranny.  Works perfect for me. with 5 speed.
2: AT- 3sp/4sp, with bottom flywheel pan removed and using a flywheel lock (make one. buy one) Suzuki sells them. HUGE VISE GRIPS work perfect.
3: Chilton's says, wrap damper pulley (its back on now) with duct tape  and use a chain wrench to hold the pulley (an ugly procedure, gross way.)
4: My way is pulley off, and home made crank bottom cog lock  , made of angle iron and attached to , ALT/AC or PS brackets. Drill holes in tool.

Note2:
Please do not rip your cam out or pop off  the belt , just because the Distributor is mis timed.  Please don't.
Set the cam, then set the Distributor , there  is no OTHER WAY.  ( and surely  never time Distributor and then time cam, as some store rags say to do)

Please use these steps, as an adjunct to the above linked manuals FSM factory documents.

There maybe?, other ways to time an engine, but this page is the FSM way.  Feel free to try those other ways.
 OEM SUZUKI SPEC. WAY!



Special Photos:
A photo of  the 16v cam end with false key way and a marks showing which is wrong.
No manual mentions this  fact, that there are 2 slots, none.  (kinda sad , really)
Do not remove this wheel #1, until you mark the keyway slot real, with a paint pen.


click to see on cam photo.
dowel pin down. E mark UP is the rule for setting the tension correctly.  Ignore all "I" marks.
Photo just above is, courtesy of "Silentbob". Thanks Bob!

SEE the false marks?,   LOOK HERE TO SEE WHY, it fits the Suzuki Swift 1.3L  DOHC SF413 ! too ,  the I  and E marks are Intake and Exh, cam side !

DO NOT EVER USE ANY "I" MARKS on this 16v 1.6L motor.
Tools and materials: ( outside of full socket sets metric and deep and shallow and normal hand tools)
Valve adjuster tool or make one.(see below)   IF SETTING LASH while you are at it , and is a 15k service point, per FSM.
Bent feeler gauage are recommend by many ,but...
I use just Plain Jane Feeler gauges.  and use them on the top of the Intake rockers.  Exhaust side is normal way.
Flywheel locker, especially if its an automatic, or make one.( 5sp, use 5th gear to torque the crank 17mm bolt)  Flywheel and VISEGRIPS.
A cam locker tool is really handy if you are replacing cam seals. (generic tools are ok, or make one)
A way to remove the seals, if doing them.  ( ICE pick, and some mylar tape is handy )  Use a real seal puller, is best practice.
A PERSONAL OPINION:
A new water pump. (factory pump is best, NO REBUILDS !  too many rebuilds; are junk)   ( I see lots of nice quality pumps on Rockauto.com)
China NO name or reputation  pumps are ALL JUNK. ( show me ? a good one? )
All new pumps will be missing the front studs.  (even OEM comes that way, so many after market parts follow suit)
So, using the orig. 2 nuts , set them on the old studs and lock them with two 10mm wrenches , and unscrew the studs.
I reapplied them (studs) with loctite 242 to the new pump front flange.
New belt kit with Idler ( The Gates belts full kit, one of the best made !). { as are  the Delco kits, the Beck-Arnely kits}
 WITH NEW IDLER !

A torque wrench that can do INCH lbs and one that can do 94 ft/lbs (NEW Factory TSB spec ,circa 96) on the crank snout bolt.

A new Valve cover gasket.  ( with Valve cover off , Do lash checks.)
New Seals, cam and crank. ( I usually dont touch , non leaking seals but that is YOUR CALL)  Crank seal is hard to not damage going in.
If you do the seals please buy quality seals as those Fleabay.com ,  seals are most likely a DOWNGRADE.

Every one asks , so here it is, the factory valve adjustment tool:   ( i think its a waste of time and money)  I use a 10mm Socket on the end of  inch-lb torque wrench.!
The below allows you to torque the nut and not allow the screw to turn. But usually I have no problems with normal tools.

See my new valve lash procedure:




Substitutes:
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Click-Adjust-Tappet-Adjuster-G4094.HTML

Any motorcycle shop can sell you this  tool , that has the same nut (a) size, or you can just make one out of any deep wall socket. (A) (you my need to grind down the end)
Just use a screw driver for the knob above and weld on a handle. Some deep wall sockets, have an out side hex nut cast in to it, GET THAT and forget welding.
Gotcha:
All books printed or copied or cloned by everyone has the crank big nut torque wrong.  it is 94 Ft/lbs , as revised by TSB in 1996.
The  Haynes, and all the rags are all 100% wrong.  ( the Hanyes publishers never read TSB 's , I wonder why?)


Some claim there is a TDC #1 T-Belt procedure for this engine, I looked and there is none to be found.
Must be urban legend.

FSM, Tag:


This warning is on USA and Canada exported engines, if you live in another country or have a low-lift [eco]cam then these precautions, may not apply to you. (but that would be rare!)
These are  serious issues, if  your car is special or unique,  then by all means , ignore all my warnings , this page is OEM LOCK BOX STOCK.
Below photo is not for timing CAM. !!!





1996 GEO TRACKED, 16V.  Properly TIMED ! Look carefully, all secrets are shown here, all 6 Points of Reference !!!  3 photos.

Click to zoom

Above, CAM KEY DOWN, "E' MARK UP.




Interference is real:    ( Look here for what can happen , if you are lucky and it only just kisses a little) See those hammer marks?, on a real 16v.
The damage will be directly proportional to your speed and how fast you kill the ignition.

Look !  See what happens?, and what interference is !,  driving fast when it happened?,  Open wallet wide $
The sticking of a valve can cause this too, and the breaking off of the poppet end, as this did. (see poppet at 7pm?)  Some call this Sucking a valve.

A leaking Seal , can leak oil onto  the belt and assure an early failure of the belt.  60k inspections are not optional.  ( unless you like buying a new engine)
A bad belt tensioner can seize and cause this , replace them every 60k. ( as a set).



usually, a destroyed head and valves, and pistons and rod bearings , at least. ( JDM to the rescue)
Some 16v engines are free running , like my 1.8L Miata DOHC.  But the above is the more common.

More Hall of shame photos:

 Piston 2.

16v Kick actual ,Bent Valves, see them lay over?

Wiki topics on same:

On many cars, a water pump failure can destroy the valves by ripping the T belt to shreds.
On Side kicks , I've seen the main water pump bearing, so bad, that the  pulley flopped side to side, cutting through the front cover
and destroying the timing belt.  (takes serious ignorance, to drive any car with a bad screaming water pump , huh?)

See top of page photo, for more ignorance, done by Previous Owners (POs).

The comments on VALVE  lash, are for those folks , changing belts, idler,  and all front seals and checking the lash as the FSM and operator guide says to do at 60k. (at least)  This takes special tools and a cam locking too. ( or home made )  Grin!
Best Practice is to have a cam and crank locking tool so you can set these critical bolts to the proper spec.
READ all TSB's before working on any Suzuki engine.   Or you may be sorry.

A TSB is a memo from Suzuki engineering to the field technicians, that corrects errors or elaborates on complex procedures.

LAST , do the Distributor timing.

Ok, at this point in time you have the cam at TDC #4 firing.  ( that is because you just finshed the tensioning step A13  and validation at #4 cyl)
There are 2 ways to set the distirbutor ( 4 actually but forget that)  set the distributor to fire at #4 or turn the crank and time the distributor to #1 like the FSM says to do. ( but.... we can infact time the distributor to #4)
One could right now , not move the crank off #4, and then....
So, pull off the Distributor cap 2 screws,  Look at the rotor,  it is pointing (cross fingers) at #4 spark wire.?
Take a mental note of that (or mark the base of Distributor) and put the cap back on, now check, is the #4 wire going to #4 spark plug?
Yes? good , now going CCW (counterclockwise) does the next CCW cap tower terminal  go to #2, then ,1 and last 3.
No, then someone mistimed your motor, so turn crank  snout CW 1 full turn, for #1 firing position and follow the instuctions for LAST above.
Normal firing order. 1,3,4,2
Cheaters Firing order , 4,2,1,3  ( it's the same , think about it)  CHEERS !
rev3------- 5-16-2010 , added cheaters firing order. by request.