Repairing damaged crank and replacing seal.

Bad Crank key	protect seal before insertion	DIY seal driver
mask before 660 apply	key in place	done.

Click to zoom above photos.

Read my Notes section.
Pull seal, by hammering with a small nail, making a hole in the seal rim. ( a real seal puller is by far easier)
Then insert a sheet metal screw and use that, to pull seal.
Seal is out, make a protector or buy one from Suzuki J34853 , we had to use tape.
Slide seal back in , and drive it home with a DIY seal driver, using water pipes. Nothing fancy, huh?
Seal is done, now we patch up that loose crank key.
Sand the key bottom groove and the damaged area. with 400 grit W/D sand paper .. Square up key with file and re-round the shaft.
The key way must be cleaned with Carb cleaner (MEK or LAC thinner , Acetone , not oil based paint thinner) (nothing with residue)
Then, once slot and key are free of all oil ! , put #660 locktite on key and key slot, then side in new key, (see slides above)
Next , this 660 product only dries when all air is removed, so it taped the whole end up with elecricans tape, then duct tape. I then waited 2 days. (over kill)
Step 10 is the only hard step, and not moving the key while sealing it up from air like a mummy, is tricky. I just, was very careful. Lots if tape.
Let it dry minimum 24 hours. file/cut it, to clean up any excess. ( just make sure to have little remainder, in the above steps, no excess )
Apply loctite 242 (243) to the outside circum. of crank snout. just a little , with finger ( nitrile gloves)
Slide on new lower crank cog. ( I made a puller to pull my cog, next TBelt swap, it is easy to make)
Put in the new crank bolt and 242 onto the threads.
Lock the crank (use 5th gear with 5sp) or flywheel locker , suzuki J23571 pn: 09924-17811 or make one like below.
Many mechs. just put a large ViseGrip tool at flywheel inspection port.
Tighten 17mm bolt to 94 /lbs/foot. (TSB spec. is a revision to all pre 99 kicks (retroactive.); this applies to all 89-98 kicks)
Let sit 6 hrs. min. (242 at room temp 22C) (24hrs, at 4 deg. C)
Complete Timing belt re-installation.
It's a runner.

Shear strength of #660, is 2000 and up to 4000 PSI. (tuff stuff) (but must be clean ,rough sufaced)

Suzuki J34853 PN:09926-18210 , sadly no longer made, 4/29/09 , R.I.P. You must grow your own. sigh.

Read other persons post on how to fix this problem. Nice photos.

KEY POINTS:
Keep in mind at all times, the keyway has NO other function , other than setting TDC. (initial alignment only)
The keyway does not hold anythink on , or hold any loads whatsoever. ( a fact )
A fresh new bolt is the most important repair here, as is the 98 lb/ft torque. ( consider 242 on the bolt threads too)
In fact, doing that and aligning the crank cog and crank slot is all that is necessary to be successful ( good news, really)
The pressure of the cog against the crank boss, is top issue here! A fresh new cog is only $25 at Suzuki ! Get ONE !
That first step on the boss below. one can put a tiny amount of 242/243 locktite on that boss, leading edge.
Do not use too much, as you dont want loctite, on the seal.
Below photo, is of the Timken Kwk99128 seal ring kit applied.( for new seals that don't seal , this is a solution)

Crank snout ,with out pump,cog , pulley.

Aluminum plate , click to see tool alone

The crank has a step in it, this step was designed (sadly) to destroy every seal inserted. ( some have tried 5 times and failed)
A plastic coke bottle can be cut up in a cone shape and fitted and used with duct tape.
Do not force the seal over this step with out protection ! Or you will be sad when it leaks , later.

My tool. (not really needed if you use large ViseGrips on Flywheel ) [but I like a nice too to do this]
(i made a simular tool for motor out of car, and fits on the fly wheel flange to the side mounts and locks the crank)
Steps:

1/8" to 3/16" aluminum plate, cut to size below.
Crank at TDC 0. keyway is UP.
Drill hole B. make sure Big Bolt will pass through. (clears the whole bolt outer rim)
place plate next to cog, then mark and drill hole A for Alternator mount bolt end.
One more hole must be drilled for the index roll pin used to index the front pulley (TDC index) , not shown below.
At this point plate is mounted , now find and mark one of the 5 holes on the cog to plate juncture. (this is the hard part)
The top too holes will be side by side as above and not like my drawing below , spaced equally around the key way.
This depends on the angle of the bracket and its attachment to the alternator.
You could just as well let the plate just rest against the top of the PS pump bracket (last photo) and no bolt A hole at all.
The drawing below does not show the correct C locations but the deminsions. are all good.
One more hole must be drilled for the index roll pin used to index the front pulley (TDC index) , not shown below.

Key Point, do not rotate the crank seperate from cam (interference motor) but small amounts are ok , by hand.

If you ever later have to remove the loctite 242 from the parts, use any paint-stripper with methylene chloride. Easy way !

96 motor

Parts: Suzuki parts all below: 1.6L SOHC only:

CRANK Bottom Cog wheel: (96-98) (CKP tone ring integrated as seen above)

Suzuki Part name.	1989 to 91	1992-95	1996-98
Crank Cog wheel. Tbelt	12631-86500	12631-53B00	12630-57B01
Crank Key.	08341-31059	08341-31059	08341-31059
Crank Pulley bolts 6-20mm x5	12618-71C00	09103-06185	09103-06185
Crank main sholder bolt.	12619-60B00 (8V ONLY) ALL YEARS	12619-53B01 (ONLY 16V)	12619-53B01

In 1992 the 5 crank pulley bolts changed from 7 ft/lbs to 12 ft/lbs torque , (higher grade is my guess)
The Crank main bolt 17mm head must be torqued to 94/ft/lbs , or the key will fail again.
I recommend buying a great Gates Timing Belt kit.
Again, the crank bolt will stretch and loose its elasticity. Replace it if it seems original.

NOTES:
Loctite 660 spec page:

DO not fail to read the Loctite engineers post here ! (BLESS HIM !) Mr. "Softop"

Not using 94ft/lbs is the cause.
Using a 3/4 drive Impact tool to put it on , causes bolt damage and the bolt yields and never is any good to resuse. ( assume this, is best practice)
Yields means over streached, and permanent damaged. ( looks like a bolt , but surely is not)

The crank snout must be still Round and intact on the circumference.
The new cog must fit the snout as a perfect slip fit, no wobble or have concentric errors.
The new cog must fit against the crank back stop perfect with no crank back stop damage.
Under these conditions the 660 works like magic.

ver 2 3-241-09, added eng. notes and 660 spec pdf.
from a vast number of sources and the fine folks, on the miata forum who really know this topic well.